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Pot Limit Omaha8 (PLO8) is a different animal from its two closest relatives, Limit Omaha HiLo and Pot Limit Omaha High. The key Limit Omaha8 concept is playing appropriate starting hands. The key Pot Limit Omaha High concept is position, position, position. Of course, all games value many concepts, but the key PLO8 concept is the betability of hands on the later streets, when the pots (and thus the bet sizes) are bigger.

One reason PLO8 isn’t played much in casinos is because skill wins. Bad play and bad players are annihilated, and fast too. PLO8 games peopled only with good players are hideously bad. The game becomes pointless and tedious. It comes down to exploiting extremely rare flukes (like top full house losing to quads).

While there aren’t that many available, some good PLO8 games are available at a few online cardrooms. One reason that PLO8 continues to exist online is simply because online games have the whole world to draw on in terms of players. Another reason is that online PLO8 games have a cap on the amount players can buy-in for. This leveling the playing field mitigates, a lot, against the standard pot limit phenomenon of good players buying lots of chips and poor players buying tiny stacks. Money goes to money in big bet poker.

However, the most important reason PLO8 games exist as much as they do online is: a high percentage of online poker players drastically overestimate their skill level. While this is true of all games online, this overestimation is more concentrated in big bet games. Mediocre players suddenly think they are God’s gift to poker, the second coming of Bret Maverick, when confronted with the pseudo-complexities of PLO8 — lots of cards, variable/progressive betting. It’s one thing to be a mediocre juggler. It’s another thing indeed to be a mediocre juggler who insists on juggling seven flaming machetes. (The other place online where mediocre players drastically overate themselves is at head-up games.)

So, the first thing to understand about online PLO8 games is many of your opponents have poor judgment in terms of true value. People with poor value skills are good people to play against in big bet poker. That understanding should underlie everything you do in the game.

You should be playing more hands in most PLO8 games than you do in limit Omaha8 or PLO High (unless a game has an unusual amount of pre-flop raising). Speculative hands that are garbage in Limit can be nicely profitable in PLO8. The most obvious one is 23xx. In Limit this is the #1 sucker hand. In pot limit the hand can be played, if you play well, because of the implied action you will get. Compare having A2xx on a flop of 873 to having 23xx on a flop of A87. You WILL get more action from players holding aces and eights or aces and sevens than you will from players holding eights and sevens or eights and threes. I’ve seen a player go for all his chips, putting in the fourth raise on a flop like this where he had AAA. Suicide. He put in all his money just to get it back. Aces have the magical ability to make people play worse.

Most players greatly over-fixate on winning pots. If they put a nickel into a pot, you darn near need a crowbar to pry them away from pouring millions in to chase that nickel. Proper PLO8 play is directly counter to this, which is why most players are not suited for the game. You should easily fold most of the hands you play. PLO8 is mostly a game of homeruns. Big pots. Big edges. Big betting. You aren’t looking to hit many PLO8 doubles. You don’t want to mix it up in a lot of pots. You want to get out early, or be gladly shoving all your chips in by the end. The only way you want to hit singles in PLO8 is by making bets on the flop that nobody calls. This can occur two ways. The first is obvious, you bet a hand that should be bet and nobody calls. You can’t put a gun to people’s heads and make them call, so just take the pot and wait for the next time. The other small pot/singles to look for are “orphan” pots — pots nobody seems to want. These are pots you can make one bet at, and then you are done. If you win the pot, great, if you get called you back off and very seldom continue to try to win the pot. A simple example, the flops is QsJs9s. You have Ad2d5hKs. You have two opponents. The first opponent checks. You bet. You should win this pot right here more than half the time. If you get called or raised, you just give up. You are bluffing these pots, but you are bluffing when your opponents have very little. Their very little just happens to beat your very little.

Betting and taking orphans should keep you hovering around playing breakeven poker. The key pots are where you look to get your profit. Also, you need to bet at orphan pots because you don’t want to always and only be betting when you have an enormous hand.

While betability is the overriding concept at work in PLO8, there are two specific situations that you should look for: the freeroll and the 3/4. Getting in situations where you can do one or the other of these is the reason to play the game.

The Freeroll. While 3/4ing is important, freerolling is much more so. Freerolls come in a variety of types, but the common theme is you are getting a free shot at your opponent’s money. (For practical purposes, the idea of a freeroll should also include “near freerolls” like on a flop of QJT and you have AKQQ while your opponent has AK22. He can beat you by making four deuces, but despite that ability to make a 1000-to-1 shot, we will still consider that near freeroll to be a “freeroll”.)

Some freeroll examples:
Flop – QsJdTc; Opponent – AcKd2h3s; You – AsKsQcJc
Flop – 3s4d5c; Opponent – AcKd2hQs; You – As2s7c8c
Flop – As8h7h; Opponent – AhAdKhQs; You – 2s3s5d6c

In each of these examples, your opponent is drawing 100% dead. He cannot beat you no matter what cards come on the turn and river. AND, you will get action from most opponents who hold these hands… especially from bad players who will often intentionally go for all their chips, particularly with the first hand.

The Ace-high Broadway straight is similar to how 23xx is in Limit Omaha8. Weak players lose more money with this hand than any other. Good players win their money when freerolling these hands. AK on a QJT flop, AQ on a KJT one, AJ on a KQT one, AT on a KQJ one… these are the hands that separate the adults from the kiddies. Weak players not only commit suicide on these hands, but also can’t even comprehend that they should often be folding the current-nut-hands like they were poison. All forms of Omaha are about making the best hand, not what is currently best. There is no leader money in poker. The ability to fold the current nut hand is absolutely critical in PLO8… and fortunately, most players are simply incapable of it. When you flop one of these Broadway straights, you should ask yourself “what am I trying to make?” If the answer is “I want to make only the same straight as I have now”, in other words, you are drawing to a blank on the turn and a blank on the river, you don’t have much of a hand.

Another type of freeroll is the “freeroll to a bluff”:
Flop – 6s7s8d; Opponent – 9sTdJcJh; You – As2h3d4c

In this hand, neither one of you has any chance at all of making a hand that beats the other one. Big, fat zero. But you have a freeroll to a river bet where you should be making significant money. No matter what the action is on the flop and turn, if the river card comes a board pair, or a flush card (especially if it is a flush card that pairs the board), a pot-size bet by you will force your opponent to fold — and even if he calls, that is fine because that means he will call you when you happen to have the flush or full house.

Notice in this example how important pot manipulation is. If you have intentionally bet yourself all-in before the river card, you are an idiot. Your chance to win money here is by betting the river (or turn) card and getting a fold. You can’t get a fold if either you or he is all-in! On the other hand, you want the pot big enough so that you can make a large enough bet to get him to fold. There is a definite science to getting pots the right size when you are on a freeroll to a bluff. Also notice, it is much better to error on the side of not building the pot big enough, and thus not being able to make a big enough bet to get a fold. That error is much less bad than the error of getting one or the other of you all-in. You can never win when somebody is all-in. When you can make a river bet of any size, you will win sometimes. Even if a pot is $400 and you can only bet $100 on the river, you will still win some percentage of the time greater than the 0% of the time you win when one of you is all-in.

A final freeroll example is the most obvious:
Flop – 6s7s8d; Opponent – 9cTdJsJd; You – As2s3d4c

Here, opposite of the freeroll to a bluff, you want to get all the money into the pot as soon as you can. Your opponent can never beat you, but you will scoop him once in awhile. Notice in the above example I’ve contrived the hands to where your opponent would make a backdoor flush if it came, which would make your ability to bluff a river card that didn’t make you a winner much tougher. Suppose he didn’t have those diamonds. Now, by betting him all-in and winning when you make your spade flush, you are GIVING UP your chance to win the pot via a freeroll bluff on the river if it comes a diamond or board pair. What you have is TWO freeroll opportunities that work against each other! This game is starting to get complicated… You have two betability issues here that you have to balance given your opponent, his betting habits, how deep the stack sizes are, how poorly your opponent plays (a terrible opponent could easily go broke the very next hand, so I would lean to putting him all-in and hope I make my flush and get all his chips, rather than look to make a smaller amount of chips via occasional river bluffs when I miss but it comes a card he doesn’t like), etc.

Of course, not all freerolls are this obvious. In the previous example you are vulnerable to being 3/4ed by hands like A238. You can’t see your opponent’s cards, so you seldom get super-obvious freerolls. However, not only do fairly clear freerolls present themselves, you need to be thinking how sometimes you ARE freerolling when you don’t know it. The freeroll should be the concept in the front of your mind… which also means: DON’T GET FREEROLLED! On a 678 flop, you should fold 9TJJ to almost any bet. It may be the nuts, but you are probably drawing dead. You may have to put in many chips to split a puny amount already in play. You may be freerolled and 3/4ed at the same time by A29T.

Folding the nuts is something you should do fairly often in PLO8, and it doesn’t have to be high-type hands like the JJT9. On a flop of 8s7s6s you should usually toss Ad2dKhQh into the muck when faced with any bet. Don’t get freerolled.

3/4ing a pot. Though dwarfed in significance by freerolls, 3/4ing is more common. 3/4ing usually occurs when two people both have the nut low, but it also happens sometimes when both players have the same high and one makes some kind of low. A much longer discussion than we have space for here, clearly it is a huge skill in being able to correctly discern when you are getting 3/4s as opposed to when you are getting 3/4ed. Some situations are obvious, like when you make the nut flush to go with a nut low, but most of the time your hand won’t be nearly so defined. When you have A238 and the board is 348QK, are you getting 3/4s or getting 3/4ed? How about 348Q4? Do you bet the pot? Do you make a smaller bet? Check? Raise if an opponent makes a small bet? There is a bottomless pit of situations and subtleties to be considered, but a player who makes bets when 3/4ing and who checks when being 3/4ed will do a helluva lot better than a person who does it the other way around!

Just like when you have the nut Broadway straight you should ask yourself what you are drawing to, when you have the nut low the first thing you should ask yourself is: what is my high hand? And then, what is the high hand I am trying to make? The nut low aspect of the hand is relatively unimportant (even if most players fixate on low).

The key word in PLO8 is “and”. When you show down you want to be saying, “I have low AND…” If there is no “and”, you usually don’t have much. “And” is what to focus on when you have nut low. If you have no “and”, checking and even check/folding will often be your correct action. Don’t get me wrong though, before the showdown “and” can include the fact that you are drawing to a bluff. A naked nut low plays fine against people who don’t have nut low!

Correctly value-betting hands like two pair, like when you hold A24Q and the board is 478KQ, or even one pair like when you have A237 and a board is 457KQ, is a challenge you have to strive to accomplish. Reading opponents, especially when you are out of hand, is a task you should always be working on when playing PLO8. “Better betting” when doing the 3/4ing and when getting 3/4ed should be the result of a never-ending study of your PLO8 opponents. It is the ongoing challenge that every player can do better and better.

One thing that should be clear from both the discussion of freerolling and 3/4ing is the dramatically more important role suited cards play in PLO8 compared to Limit. You want “and”. Flushes are just another way to make a bettable “and”. And flushes are never 3/4ed. They are either good or they aren’t.

Besides their 3/4ing value, flushes can turn splits into scoops. Suppose you make the nut flush on the river against an opponent who only has the nut low: Board – 4s5c8dKsQs; Opponent – Ac2c3dJh; You – As3s6d7c
In this case the river card changed things not at all, but you now can safely make a pot size bet. Say the pot is $1000, and you bet that. The best your opponent can do is get half. If he calls, he gets $1500. But he has to consider that if he calls and gets 3/4ed, he gets back $750, so calling the $1000 bet costs him $250. You will get your opponents to fold some amount of time over 0% in situations like this. Pure profit.

Similarly, suppose instead you hold As2s4dTc. In this case the river card again didn’t change things. You had your opponent 3/4ed already with a pair of fours. But how often are you going to be able to value bet a pair of fours? How often should you TRY to value bet a pair of fours? By making a much more bettable flush than your measly pair of fours you now can bet the $1000 pot. When you do, if your opponent calls, you make that extra $250. And, if he doesn’t call, making the flush won you the $250 that was already in the pot (his 1/4 share of the pre-bet $1000 pot).

Suitedness makes hands more bettable, and it makes another way you can make an “and”. As2s3d4d is a much more profitable hand than As2c3d4h. If you could just wish it and have it be so, you would want your cards to always be suited and your opponent’s cards to never be suited. Don’t fall into the trap some inexperienced players do when they see “action-killing flops” of three of the same suit. They wrongly conclude suits won’t bring you much. That is silly. Pots on the flop are relatively small. We don’t much care about on-the-flop pots. We care about being in a position to bet hands on the river, when the pot and bets are biggest. Make-a-flush-on-the-river boards are where the clearest exchange of money/value takes place in PLO8. You can’t tie flushes, only one winner. And, betting/pseudo-bluffing opportunities present themselves where pure low hands can blow high hands out of pots. It’s an oversimplification, but it could be asserted that when you aren’t suited you want pots to be decided on the flop and turn; when you are suited, you want to be putting in action on the river — and again, the money in the game is in making river bets when the pots and possible bets are biggest.

If any game is NOT the game of the future, this is it. But when the game is played, and non-good players are involved, it presents an excellent opportunity for solid, positive expectation poker by focusing on a few key concepts: betability, “and”, suitedness, 3/4ing, freerolling
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People often ask me what book I’d recommend to a novice Omaha player. There are other useful books, but my normal reply is: the Bible. Omaha does have the tendency to drive beginning players to prayer, but it really need not be so.

I am also often asked about writing my own book on Omaha. This is not a book. Neither is it meant to deal with the more advanced, complex and difficult skills that the strongest Omaha players master. This is an introduction to the key strategies behind the game. While it’s not meant to deal with the most advanced concepts, it does deal with concepts that should benefit many experienced players too, not just novices.

What I mean by “Omaha” here is the most common variation of Omaha Holdem: Limit Omaha HiLo Split, Omaha8, Omaha/8, Omaha High-Low, Omaha Split, Omaha Eight-or-Better. Omaha is also played Limit High Only, Pot Limit High, and Pot Limit HiLo Split. While concepts here are sometimes applicable to the other variations, sometimes they are not. Check out the above links for strategy ideas on the other variations. Some readers may want to begin with the How to Play Poker page and the Omaha Rules page to go over game basics, then return here. Also check out Omaha Myths, which deals with common misconceptions.

Two cards, always two cards… Omaha hands consist of three of the five community board cards, plus two cards from each player’s hand — always three off the board, always two out of the hand. You can use the same or different card combinations to make your high hand and your low hand (if any), but you always use two from your hand, three from the board. This is important not just from the perspective that it is a rule and you have to do it, but also in thinking about how your hand must integrate with the board. Your hand must cooperate with the board. (Cooperation is a recurrent Omaha principle.) You should never think of your hand in isolation. It needs three cards from the board for high, and needs three cards for low. (Some new players find it helpful to focus more on “three from the board” rather than “two from the hand.”)

Nut low means best possible low… Reading low hands often confuses newbie players — experienced ones too — but there actually is a pretty easy way to do it. First, you must remember the two cards from your hand, three from the board rule. A board like 87532 might make 2367 somewhat hard to read but you read your low hand simply by taking the lowest card combination to be found using three cards from the board and two from your hand.

But what is the lowest? What about when your cards are paired (counterfeited) on the board? Think of it this way: the lowest/best possible hand is a wheel, a 54321 — or 54,321. The highest/worst possible qualifying low hand is 87654 — or 87,654. Read your low hand as a number, starting with the highest card and working down. The player with the hand/number closest to 54,321 wins (or ties if someone else has the same hand/number). Omaha players often speak of “the nut low.” This is the best possible low in this particular hand. While A2 combined with an 876KQ board creates the best low possible, 54 combined with a board of A23KQ makes the nut low in another case. And, 23 combined with a 764KA board makes the nut low (64,321), not an A2, which only can make a 76,421. If you get confused by how your cards are paired or counterfeited by the board, at the showdown, show your hand and ask the dealer to read exactly what your low hand is.

Omaha is a game of nut hands, so as hands unfold, practice reading what the nut low hand is. Then start thinking of your low hand in relation to the nut low. It’s not important to know how low your low is, what matters is how low your low is in comparison to the nut low.

Why play Omaha?… This website is called Play Winning Poker. While some newbies reading this Introduction will be hard pressed to do it right away, the aim is to win at Omaha — not have fun, or even to irritate yourself. Frankly, at lower limits, winning at Omaha is easy, if you really are trying to win because most Omaha players play terribly, much worse than they play Holdem (which is not so good to start with).

In many ways, Omaha is mathematically simplistic. If you play only good starting hands and your opponents see fit to play almost every hand, and don’t care whether they play for one bet or for four, soon the math of that will work in your favor. Omaha is the best game to make money, especially when you have a small bankroll. $3/6 Omaha requires only about half the bankroll of $3/6 Holdem, but your hourly win rate should be higher.

Bad players have virtually no chance to beat Omaha over any meaningful period of time, but they can win big pots, and have really good sessions. This is true of Holdem too but to a much smaller degree, because Holdem edges are generally small in loose games. Weak Holdem players can “school” together and get pot odds on their poor draws and therefore not be playing all that bad. On the other hand, there is no parallel schooling phenomenon in Omaha where very often five players draw stone cold dead while two players have all the outs between them (for example, on the turn the nut flush and the top set are the only live hands, and five other players with two pairs and baby flushes are drawing dead).

Omaha is a game of massive edges; Holdem is a game of smallish edges. Low limit Omaha games are the easiest poker games to beat — if you play properly. Most players do not have the ability, or more important, the desire to play properly in low limit Omaha games. If you are playing to win, generally Omaha games are the place to play because they are cheaper (less bankroll), more profitable (higher hourly win rates) and have weaker players playing much more poorly. It’s deadly dull tho. What winning loose-game Omaha is not is a barrel of laughs.

So, for less experienced players, there are some contradictions at work here. Omaha is a great game for good players… but most inexperienced players are not good… but it is very easy to teach a player to play way-above-average Omaha… but the basic advice is to play with great discipline… but having discipline is an advanced skill… and is boring as paste.

Omaha is a game of non-random accuracy… One thing to understand about Omaha is that since you get a higher percentage of your final hand sooner, your hands are generally much more defined than in Holdem or Stud. After all, 7/9ths of your hand is known on the flop. Then, when it comes to the betting, the likely outcome of an Omaha hand is often precisely known. A player with twenty, or twelve, or four outs has that many outs.

In Holdem random outcomes are common. Facing several opponents, they can win by hitting oddball kickers or spiking their underpair. On the other hand, Omaha is far more concrete. You know your outs — how many cards make you the nut hand. In loose games there is very little mystery. In tighter games you often don’t need to make nut hands to win, since you face fewer opponents, but in common lower limit situations (where most Omaha is played), there is little randomness to the game. Unlike Holdem, before the river card is dealt, usually you should know exactly how many possible cards make you the winner, and how many don’t.

Omaha is a game of information. Holdem is a game of uncertainty. That’s how they were designed! Loose game Omaha is about ending up with the nuts. Loose game Holdem is far more shadowy and difficult.

Many players seem to draw the wrong conclusions from the greater certainty that is part of Omaha. They think because their nut flush on the turn gets beaten on the river when the board pairs that Omaha has some mystical randomness to it. The opposite is true. There are a precise number of cards that pair the board, and make you lose. There are a precise number that do not pair the board, and make you win. On the turn, if you have the nut flush, with no cards in your hand paired on the board, and your opponent has a set, with no other cards paired on the board, there are exactly forty possible river cards. Exactly ten pair the board to make you a loser. Exactly thirty do not pair the board and make you the winner. That’s it — pure, simplistic math. In the long run, you win three out of four. This is known. This is Omaha.

Do not let yourself be confused by irrelevant concepts. What matters in any form of poker, but particularly in Omaha, is the probability of winning — not who is temporarily in the lead. Whether you flop a made hand or a draw or a backdoor draw is irrelevant, what matters are your prospects, your probabilities, of having the winning hand on the river. What counts is how many cards, in what combinations, make you the winning hand. Know how many cards make your hand, and then know that in the long run you will win pots in the mathematically appropriate percentage: if you have x% chance of making the winning hand, you better be getting at least the correspondingly appropriate pot odds.

Omaha is a game of accuracy, clarity and concrete information. Sure, sometimes you will get unlucky, and since Omaha edges are so huge, when you get unlucky it can be pretty hard to swallow, but since the edges are usually so big, if you play good starting hands in Omaha, and get unlucky, you can still win. You just have to keep your discipline.

Starting hands… Unlike Holdem, where post-flop play is far more critical, winning Omaha fundamentally begins with starting hands. Starting hands exist before the flop, which is where you get enormous edges in Omaha against a field. On the turn you will often have times where some players are even drawing dead, and that is clearly the juiciest money in the game, but the simplest, most direct, most necessary way to beat these games is to not play crap hands and to get more money in the pot when you have A255 and several of your opponents have hands like K965. Getting garbage hands with a low winning expectation to pay before the flop when they are enormous dogs is a big part of winning Omaha.

Not counting AA and perhaps KK, in looser, multiway games Holdem hands run much closer in value than Omaha hands do — urban myths not to the contrary. If you don’t know and appreciate this basic concept, you are going to be in trouble in Omaha. Omaha has a fairly large group of hands that will win at double the rate of randomish hands. Few Holdem hands can say the same. Only playing good starting hands, and raising before the flop with many of them, is the basics of winning in loose-game, low to middle limit Omaha.

Schooling in Omaha… “Schooling” is a common phenomenon in loose-game Holdem. When several players play badly by calling with weak draws, like gutshot straights or backdoor flushes, these players partially protect each other by making the “price” on each of their calls better. If only one player calls with a gutshot draw, usually that is a significant mistake, but if several players make similar calls, now the pot is big enough to make the calls profitable, or at least much less bad. Properly understanding the strategy involved in schooling is a key skill in loose-game Holdem. (See article on Holdem Schooling here.)

There is no parallel schooling phenomenon in Omaha — quite the contrary. In Omaha, schooling benefits the favorites, not the underdogs. This reverse schooling phenomenon is what makes Omaha often mindlessly profitable. Players with four outs or less call bets from players with twenty outs, and no matter how many people call, the twenty outs player continues to have twenty outs. Despite the definite reverse profitability of “schooling” in Omaha, poor players engage in it all the time. They look at a big pot and call bets hoping to get lucky, even though they may be drawing totally dead.

Suppose you flop a top set of three kings against seven opponents. The true enemies of your KKK (or any strong Omaha hand) are the first two callers (meaning the two opponents with the most outs). On a flop of KsQd7c for example, we are afraid of AJTx wrap-straight draws. That’s the first caller or two. Then we have open-end straight draws. We are the favorite over those (and all the rest of the draws). Next are backdoor flush draws. Then we worry about the lame backdoor straight draws around the seven. Play roulette ligne Naturally, many of these longshot draws overlap each other. For instance, if the Ace-high spade flush draw calls us, we certainly love the five-high spade flush draw to call, drawing dead. Yes, they may win sometimes, but we love these sixth, seventh, and eighth callers!

With the KKK, if we assume we won’t win unless we fill up, and we don’t fill up on the turn, we will have ten outs of the forty-four possible cards, meaning we will fill up 23% of the time. Even if we lose to quads the 3% part of that, that’s still a one out of five win percentage, for a scoop, while getting six, seven or eight way action. Additionally, we’ll normally have our own backdoor draws. If we have two backdoor King-high flush draws, this will further destroy what little power the sixth, seventh and eight callers have, as their backdoor baby flush draws in our suits are contributing totally dead money on that aspect of their hands.

So, building a pot with a raise before the flop in Omaha does not benefit schooling opponents, it benefits players with the good hands. The flip side of this phenomenon exposes another key difference between Omaha and Holdem.

In loose Holdem games, there are a lot of hands you can profitably add to your arsenal, most obviously Ace-rag suited and suited connectors. This is not true in Omaha. Again, the difference in value of hands multiway in Omaha is much more dramatic than in Holdem. The majority of hands simply are never playable (outside the blinds). If you are on the button and everybody limps in, 3456 is still a worthless piece of garbage. It does not matter if you have three opponents or seven, the hand stinks. You can play a small number of additional hands, but for the most part, no matter how loose or weak your opponents are, you can’t add too many more hands to your playable repertoire.

The thing to “loosen up” in such a game is to want to play for a raise most hands you play. In tight games, calling when someone limps in front of you is often the right play. In a loose game, raising is usually the correct play because you are playing a hand with way the best of it. You want dead money in the pot, and you want dead hands hopelessly chasing it! And they will.

A “river” game?… Some players like to call Omaha a “river game” because the final card often determines the winning hand. While that is true, the thinking behind this “river game” idea is very flawed. Poor Omaha players wait to the river to bet — when they know they are going to win (or lose). That’s just not sensible or profitable. Omaha is not a “river game”; it is a game of preparation.

Before the flop: you should play hands that have a high expectation; you should manipulate the pot size; you should try to manipulate your opponents so that when you have a hand that plays well against fewer opponents you are playing against fewer opponents and when you have a hand that plays well against a full field you are playing against a full field.

After the flop: the flop is critical. Here you should begin to roughly calculate the probabilities and deduce how favorable your chances are to win. Again, here a player should be manipulating the pot — get more chips in when the odds favor you, try to minimize when you have a longer shot.

The turn card is the least important aspect of Omaha but it’s the end of the main math part of the game. In loose games, you can pretty much calculate precisely your chances of winning some or all of the pot.

Whether a player then makes or doesn’t make their hand on the river really doesn’t matter. You do everything right mathematically up to this point, and lose to a one outer, that is fine — just do the same things again and again the next times. Omaha (and all the other games) is about having the best of it in the longrun. There is no “leader money” in poker. The “best” hand is the one with the highest winning potential (including the understanding that some hands will win more bets than others). Don’t think what just happened was an aspect of a “river game”. I can’t emphasize this strongly enough: All the truly important actions in this hand occurred before that river card happened to bring you bad luck.

Another thing to consider is that only a tiny percentage of money action is on the river in Omaha. Poker is about money. Omaha is not about the river. That’s naive. Omaha is about getting money in the pot in a mathematically advantageous way before the river. Limit Omaha High Low is an anti-river game!

Put another way, if you play a coin flip game against a guy, and he says he’ll give you $5 for every time it comes up heads, but you have to give him $1 for every time it comes up tails, it would be wrong to refer to this situation as “a flip game”! The key part of the game was in the pre-negotiation, not in the flip itself.

Driving the pot… Loose game Omaha is mostly about nut hands. If there is a flush, you sure want the nut flush. If there is a low, you sure want the nut low. The obvious reason, of course, is because you have the winning hand rather than the second or third best hand. But that’s not the only value to playing nut hands.

Again, winning Omaha requires pot manipulation — get more money in when you have clearly the best of it; play for cheap when you don’t. Nut hands and nut draws using quality cards can “drive the betting” where non-nut hands cannot.

For instance, let’s look at the enormous difference between KK and JJ — not in terms of how much more often KK makes the winning hand, but in terms of the difference in the pot sizes. KK is a much more valuable holding in part because KK can drive the betting in many pots that JJ can’t — like on a turn board of KQQ7 versus a board of JQQ7. The difference between those two situations is enormous. There are other reasons why KK is a major holding while JJ is a minor one, but the difference in how each can drive the betting (or not) offers an excellent illustration of what situations you want to be in when playing Omaha.

Likewise, there is a very large difference between A23x and A2xx on a 87K flop. The latter hand should win less money, not just because it will be counterfeited sometimes and not make the winning hand, but because it cannot drive the betting nearly as much (if at all) as the A23x can. A256, A247, A269, all these hands should win extra money not just because you make winners more often, but because you should be driving the betting with them far stronger than with the one-dimensional A2.

Cooperation… Greedy players make lousy Omaha players. Foolish greed often costs players bets because they simply don’t recognize that the game frequently requires cooperative betting. Suppose there are three people in a pot. On an 8s7s5c flop, Player A bets and is called. The 9h comes on the turn. Player A bets again, Player B calls, Player C raises, Player A reraises, B calls, C caps, A and B call. Now the river card pairs the board with a flush card, the 9s. What now? Often Player A will bet, with no high hand, and Player B will raise, with no low hand. This will drive Player C with a straight and a weak low out of the pot. Translation: stupid Player A and Player B. Instead of cooperating to get at least one bet from Player C, they got none. If Player A stupidly bets, Player B should call, and hope to get one bet from Player C, or perhaps an idiotic raise. The better play though would be for Player A to check, have Player B bet, get Player C to call, then have Player A checkraise, and have Player B now call. This way you get at least one bet from Player C, and perhaps two. Think about how you can use cooperative betting between high and low hands to extract bets from players in the middle. Don’t be greedy and cost yourself money.

Luck… While the emphasis on the non-random mathematical nature of the game above makes the point, I’ll mention a few things about luck as it applies to Omaha. All poker has luck involved. Omaha is the most mathematically straightforward poker game — very little randomness, very much known information. So, when someone makes a miracle one-outer on the river, some people will mistakenly think of Omaha as having a high degree of luck, when the opposite is plainly true. Omaha is a bit like a roulette wheel. If you have bets on all the numbers except one, when it happens to come up that other number that is really bad luck. But, now suppose the person who bet on that one number also put up as much money as you did. You had thirty-six chances to win, he had one, playing for the same prize. The longrun outcome of this game is surely not going to be determined by luck! You will crush your opponent, either very soon, or a little while later. When he gets lucky, he gets super-lucky, but that’s just fine, as long as he is willing to keep making the same bet over and over.

Holdem has far more random luck than Omaha (or Stud). That’s why it’s the most popular game. Poor players can do better, longer. Somewhat bizarrely, Holdem also has more long-term skill. Winning Holdem is a game of exploiting tiny edges often. Winning Omaha is a game of exploiting huge edges less often.

In most ways, Omaha is a far simpler game. When played by good players, Omaha games are horrible — unless the blinds are huge, forcing players to gamble. This is why Omaha is often played with a kill, to generate action in a game that should have very little. This is also why Omaha will never be “the game of the future.” Poor players have no chance. Good players eat them alive. In many localities, Omaha games burn brightly for a while, and then burn out as the bad players go back to Holdem games where random luck gives them a fighting chance.

Quartered… In loose games you should hardly ever think about being quartered (when you have the same low hand as another player). It’s almost never very costly to be quartered in limit Omaha. In loose games, one of the principal plays you should always have on your mind is how you can get three-quarters of a pot with hands like nut low and one pair. Too many weaker players obsessively fixate on being quartered with this sort of hand instead of focusing on getting three-quarters of the pot occasionally. The quickest way to get over a pathological fear of being quartered is to just do the math on various situations where you get one-quarter. It’s hardly ever much of a loss. Now compare that to similar hands where you manage to get three-quarters of different size pots. You’ll quickly see that many tiny losses getting quartered are more than compensated for by a few occasions where you can snatch three-quarters.

Scooping… High-Low Split poker is about scooping the pot — winning it all, not splitting. Many weak and beginning players think they are playing decently because they focus on hands with A2 or A3 that make the nut low. These hands are playable obviously, and getting half a loaf is better than none, but this is most definitely not why you should be showing up to play Omaha (or Stud HiLo for that matter).

Once again, just doing some simple math is very illuminating. Scooping a pot is not merely twice as good as splitting. Suppose you play a five-way pot. Everyone puts in $80. If you split the $400 pot, you get back $200, a profit of $120. But if you scoop, you get $400, for a profit of $320. That’s not twice as good, it is 2.67 times as good. In a three-way pot where you all invest $80, if you split you get $120 for a profit of $40. If you scoop, you get $240 for a profit of $160 — four times as good as splitting.

The real reason to play A2 hands is not for the benefit of making the nut low and splitting a pot. The reason to play this hand is because while it is splitting the pot some of the time, it allows other parts of your hand to be aiming to scoop the pot. When you play A2, you actually want to be using some other aspect of your hand, something that will scoop. A2 just makes it safe for you to play, including often giving you the chance to make backdoor straights and flushes that you otherwise would not have stayed in the pot to make. This again goes back to “driving the pot”. A2 allows you to drive the pot in situations like where you have A2JT with the nut flush draw and the board is 4678. Your A2 allows you to stick around for the gutshot straight draw, and allows you to aggressively bet your nut flush draw. That is where the money is, not in splitting the pot with the nut low.

Four card units… The above illustration also should help make the point that Omaha hands are four-card units. Despite the “must play two” aspect of the game, Omaha hands should not be looked at as six two-card holdings. Doing so is to fundamentally misunderstand the game. The RGP Posts section of this website addresses several fallacies involving Omaha point count systems, and starting hand charts in general. There are a lot of reasons these systems are a bad idea but one basic flaw is they view Omaha hands as several two-card units.

It should be easy enough to see though that while 3d3h is a basically useless Omaha holding on its own, when combined with an As2s it now becomes a powerful aspect of a coordinated hand! Viewing the 33 out of the context of the A2 is a serious error.

Beyond the simplistic thinking about starting hands, it is critical to think of Omaha hands as four card units after the flop. You may play As2s3dQd, but end up with a flop of Qs9c2c. Before the flop no point-count system would assign the Qd2s aspect of your hand any value, but now here on the flop it is part of your whole hand, and you must think in terms of how you have two pair, a backdoor flush draw, a back door nut low draw, a backdoor wheel draw, etc. Omaha hands are multifaceted and multi-dimensional. They should be viewed and analyzed as integrated wholes, not separate parts. An Omaha hand can be greater than the sum of its parts, sometimes even less, but Omaha hands are always four cards.

Situational analysis & starting hands… All winning poker requires situational judgments. Some folks just hate that. They want easy, cookie-cutter answers. Sometimes difficult problems do have easy answers, but more often they don’t. Holdem is a more situational game than Omaha, but because of that, when situational judgments are needed in Omaha, they are usually very critical — inspirational even. For example, bluffing is not something that you should do much of in loose game Omaha, but there still is a lot of profit to be made from bluffing, precisely because nobody thinks it is a big part of the game!

Most players play a lot of hands in Omaha, more hands than they play in Holdem. The proper play is the reverse. However many hands you play in Holdem, you should play less in Omaha. (Again, Holdem is a post-flop game where playing junk before the flop can often be situationally correct.) If you are in an Omaha game with people violating this concept, as most Omaha players do, then you should only be focusing on playing strong hands and, in the correct situations, a few highly speculative hands that make for big scoops. The latter group boils down to KKxx, and QQ with two decent other cards. All other hands should either contain A2, A3, Ax suited, or be highly coordinated (KQJT, QJJT, 2345). The weakest of these are also more speculative (like the three examples). They aren’t very good, and don’t hit that often, so you want to try and play for only one bet, but when they do hit, they pay off nicely, so in weak, loose games they should be played. In tougher games they should normally be mucked.

A very good, but not spectacular, hand like A23K with a suit on the King will scoop somewhere between 20 and 50% more than a random hand, depending on number of players and positional factors (and will split far more than random hands). If you are on the button and don’t raise with this hand when everybody limps in, you are playing lousy poker. On the other hand you normally don’t want to raise under the gun with hands like A234 because you want players. You want to play your very good hands for a raise, you want to try to put in an extra bet when you can, but sometimes you can’t.

A very general starting point for loose-ish games is: AAxx, A2xx, Ax suited, A3xx, four cards ten or bigger (except trips), KK with two decent cards. That’s mostly it, but there are definite exceptions like AKsQs4. Don’t look at these as rigid rules. AK54 is a far superior hand to A397 offsuit. Solid “one-way” hands are okay. You want to win the whole pot. Big cards win big pots, but they have bigger fluctuations.

The end of the beginning… Advanced Omaha strategy goes quite a bit beyond the above, but most Omaha players go nowhere near as far as we go here. Once you think correctly about your approach to the game, like correctly viewing how much better scooping is than splitting for instance, advanced strategy concepts become more readily apparent, and your play will evolve and adapt.

One big reason good players beat bad players at Omaha is because good players are thinking about the right game. Don’t be concerned about losing pots. That’s defeatist tunnel vision. Instead, be concerned with getting money in with the best of it time and time and time again, and then letting the math take care of things in the longrun. That is Omaha. The introduction to it anyway…
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